Wine travel
An Ancient Heritage Without Phylloxera or Grafting
Particularly on La Palma, the “green island” in the west of the archipelago, winegrowing plays a deeply traditional, authentic and very special role.
2 min read
Anyone travelling around the Canary Islands soon discovers that these islands are not just a paradise for hikers, sunseekers and volcano enthusiasts – they are also a hidden gem for wine lovers. Particularly on La Palma, the “green island” in the west of the archipelago, winegrowing plays a deeply traditional, authentic and very special role.
Traditional Winegrowing Amid Volcanoes
La Palma impresses not only with its spectacular landscapes of lava fields, laurel forests and steep coastlines, but also with its centuries-old vineyards, found on slopes and in volcanic hollows. Winegrowing has a long history here – the first vines were introduced by Spanish conquerors as early as the 15th century.
Yet while Europe suffered a catastrophic phylloxera epidemic in the 19th century, La Palma – like the other Canary Islands – was spared this pest. The warm, dry climate and geographical isolation acted as a natural shield. To this day, phylloxera remains unknown on La Palma.
Winegrowing Without Grafting – a Rare Exception
And therein lies a distinctive feature that makes winegrowing on La Palma unique worldwide: the vines here grow on their own roots. This means they have not been grafted onto resistant American rootstocks, as they have in almost every other winegrowing region in the world. Instead, they still thrive on their original European roots.
This practice is almost a relic of another age. The vines grow slowly, deeply rooted in mineral-rich volcanic soil – a terroir that gives the wines a character all their own: saline, mineral, with surprising depth and freshness. Every bottle is a genuine piece of the island.
Diversity in the Glass: Indigenous Varieties and Artisanal Production
Winegrowers on La Palma work primarily with indigenous grape varieties found only in the Canary Islands. These include the white Albillo Criollo and the red Negramoll, whose grapes are harvested by hand and often still processed in the traditional way. Many winegrowers favour spontaneous fermentation, minimal intervention in the cellar and small production volumes – a deliberate alternative to industrialised mass wine production.
In the high-altitude vineyards around Tijarafe, Garafía and Mazo, as well as in the famous sites of Fuencaliente, wines develop that benefit from the distinctive microclimate. Here, sunshine, trade winds and volcanic soils meet ancient vines – a combination that is second to none.
A Treasure for Explorers
Wines from La Palma remain a hidden gem in Europe. Anyone who gets their hands on a bottle tastes not just a wine, but a story: of independence, tradition and resilience. The absence of grafting, the lack of phylloxera, the vines growing on their own roots – all of this makes La Palma’s wines a true cultural treasure.
La Palma is not just an island of natural wonders, but also a living open-air museum of traditional winegrowing. Here, vines still grow as they commonly did throughout Europe centuries ago – freely, deeply rooted and without American rootstock. Anyone seeking wines that are authentic, full of character and rooted in history should give the wines of La Palma a stage. They deserve it.
Die Weinpost