Silvaner: Franconia’s Cult Grape

Silvaner as Franconia’s Cult Wine

Franconia belongs with Silvaner just as Munich belongs with Oktoberfest. And there is a reason for that. The first vines arrived here on the Main as long as 360 years ago. Initially it was called “Österreicher”, after the place it came from. The first documented planting of Silvaner in Germany took place in the town of Castell on 10 April 1659, in the Middle Ages. An expensive indulgence at the time. At 8 shillings and 3½ pfennigs, the vines cost twice as much as the usual varieties. And with that, the grape variety had found its home. Shortly afterwards came the next historic planting, which still resonates today. In 1665, Alberich Degen, abbot of Ebrach Abbey, planted a vine in the Würzburger Stein vineyard for the first time. Until the 1970s, it was Germany’s most widely planted grape variety, accounting for more than 30% of vineyard area. After that, other wines such as Müller Thurgau set out to delight German palates as well. The Roman woodland god Silvanus is said to have lent it his name. The power of nature and the rural worldview are said to be his core domains. 

This grape variety is already mentioned in the ancient Roman Naturalis historia, dating from the first century AD during the time of the Holy Roman Empire. It is therefore assumed that the name Silvaner derives from the Latin word “silva”, meaning forest. The plant itself is a crossing of Traminer and the indigenous variety Österreichisch Weiß.

The White Wine That Can Transform Itself

Germany certainly has no shortage of dry white wines. The world envies us for this wealth of varieties in the heart of Europe. Primarily in Franconia, but in other terroirs too, Silvaner is a grape variety that has revealed different facets time and again since its earliest plantings. Wherever it grows, the vine absorbs the subtlest nuances of the vineyards and reflects them in the glass. It makes no difference whether the wine is dry, off-dry or sweet. In this respect it behaves much like those wonders of flavour, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, but its regional ties make Franconians particularly proud of this opera singer with her many vocal registers. From the finest coloured sandstone through shell limestone to gypsum marl, clear differences can be tasted, and that is precisely the intention. Silvaner fascinates at every level of Franconia’s quality pyramid. Everyday wine by the glass, the regional Bocksbeutel with its now ridged bottle shape, or a lusciously sweet white wine: this grape variety handles all these styles with ease. 

The Many Names of Silvaner

Since this grape variety also has a centuries-long history, countless winegrowers around the world have given it a name of their own. Here is a whole mountain of alternative names for one and the same wine. Have fun learning them by heart.

Silvaner is also known as:

 Arvine, Arvine Grande, Augustiner Weiss, Augustraube Weisse, Balint, Beregi Szilvani, Boetzinger, Cilifantli, Clozier, Cynifadl Zeleny, Cynifal, Cynifal Zeleny, Feuille Ronde, Fliegentraube, Franken, Frankenriesling, Frankentraube, Fueszeres Szilvani, Gamay Blanc, Gelber Silvaner, Gentil Vert, Grande Arvine, Gros Plant du Rhin, Gros Rhin, Gros Riesling, Gros-Rhin, Gruene Honigtraube, Gruenedel, Gruener, Gruener Silvaner, Gruener Sylvaner, Gruener Zierfahndler, Gruener Zierfahnler, Gruener Zierfandl, Gruener Zierfandler, Gruener Zirfahndler, Gruener Zirfantler, Gruenfraenkisch, Gruenlich Gelber Sylvaner, Gruner Sylvaner, Johannisberger, Krupnyi Risling, L’Auxerrois, Mishka, Momavaka, Monterey Riesling, Moravka, Morawka, Mourton, Movavka, Murza Selenschitz, Mushka, Mushza, Musza, Nemetskii Rizling, Oesterreicher, Oesterreicher Gruener, Oesterreichisch, Oestreicher, Pepitraube, Pepltraube, Picardon Blanc, Picardor Blanc, Picardou Blanc, Plant du Reno, Plant du Rhin, Raisin d’Autriche, Rhin, Ronfoliza, Roter Silvaner, Rother Zierfahnler, Rundblatt, Salfin, Salfin Belyi, Salfine Bely, Salvaner, Salvener, Salvenier, Salviner, Scharvaner, Scherwaner, Schoenfeiler, Schoenfeilner, Schwaebler, Schwuebler, Sedmogradka, Sedmogradska Zelena, Seleni Kleshez, Selenzhiz, Selivan, Silvain Vert, Silvanac Zeleni, Silvanai Zeleni, Silvaner, Silvaner Bianco, Silvaner Bianco Franken, Silvaner Blanc, Silvaner Green, Silvaner Gruener, Silvaner Verde, Silvaner Vert, Silvaner White, Silvani Zoeld, Silvania, Silvanske, Silvanske Zelene, Simonstraube, Sonoma Riesling, Sylvan Zeleny, Sylvaner, Sylvaner Green, Sylvaner Gruen, Sylvaner Verde, Sylvaner Vert, Sylvanertraube, Sylvanske Rane, Sylvanske Zelene, Szemendrianer, Szilvani Feher, Tschafahndler, Tschafahnler, Weissblanke, Weisser Augustiner, Weisser Oesterreicher, Weisser Silvaner, Weisser Sylvaner, Ximenesia, Ximenestraube Fruehe, Yesil Silvaner, Zelena, Zelena Sedmogradka, Zelencic, Zeleni Silvanac, Zeleni Silvanec, Zeleny, Ziehfaedler, Zierfahndler, Zierfahnler, Zierfandl, Zierfandler Gruener, Zierifandel, Zierifandler, Zinifal, Zoeld Silvani, Zoeld Szilvani, Zoeldsilvani, Zoeldszilvani

Characteristics of Silvaner

Silvaner has an open, pale-green shoot tip. Its young leaves have cobweb-like hairs and are rather yellow. Mature leaves tend to be rounded, without pronounced serration, and are medium-sized and only slightly lobed. The bunch is cylindrical, relatively compact and medium-sized. The green grapes glow in the sun. If they become overripe, they develop brown spots. The grape has a relatively thick skin and is therefore well protected against rot.

Incidentally, Silvaner has also been used in a number of new crossings, such as: Bukettraube, Juwel, Kanzler, Osteiner, Sicher, Diana, Freisamer, Gloria,  Mariensteiner, Morio-Muskat, Multaner, Nobling, Rieslaner, Bacchus. Cantaro, Optima, Regent.

Site and Cultivation

Silvaner needs fertile, well-drained, medium-heavy to heavy soils with a good nutrient supply. Without these, shoot growth gradually declines and the vine becomes woody. The vines must be able to root deeply. Because of its sensitivity to winter frost, the vine is planted in elevated, not too low-lying, early-ripening sites in Franconia. With good ripeness, and provided yields are not pushed to the absolute limit, the cellars produce harmonious wines with delicate acidity and a subtle bouquet. The character of the wine depends heavily on the site and soil composition. On loamy soils, the wines often turn out neutral, whereas weathered soils, such as those prevalent in Franconia, produce fine, elegant wines with intriguing earthy notes. Unlike other white grape varieties, what you taste in the glass is not really an interplay of fruit but a reflection of the terroir. The Land Where the Wines Grow would probably be an excellent film title for this wine. 

The Most Important Silvaner-Growing Regions

Although this article has so far focused solely on Franconia’s love of and attachment to Silvaner, Rheinhessen leads the way nationally in terms of vineyard area. With around 2,200 hectares, this wine region is clearly in first place, followed by Franconia with 1,500 hectares. Silvaner is also grown in the Palatinate, on 550 hectares.

In Austria, Silvaner is called Grüner Zierfandl or Ziehrfandler, but is now really only grown as a hobby. It is still found more frequently in Alsace and Switzerland, where it is called Johannisberg, as well as in the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Croatia and Slovenia.

Vinifying Silvaner

As already described, Silvaner stands for remarkable diversity. With expert care in the vineyard and cellar, Silvaner can produce wine of very high quality. Fairly mild acidity and a slightly fruity to earthy note are typical of high-quality wines from this variety. The delicate bouquet of this usually light wine reminds wine professionals with a keen nose of herbs, gooseberry or fresh hay. Its winemaking possibilities are as numerous as its variations. Whether in stainless steel, wooden casks or barriques, with varying periods of lees contact or partially filled vessels, it makes no difference. Silvaner is patient and will tolerate almost anything. This grape variety gives every cellar master a good playground for testing what is possible. Varying skin-contact times, filtration options and similar winemaking choices create truly significant aromatic differences.

The Best Food Pairings for the Wine

This white wine pairs well with meat dishes, fish, seafood and shellfish, poultry and vegetarian dishes. But it does not always have to be a substantial hot main course. Thanks to the diversity of aromas and the playfully earthy character in the glass, it can certainly be paired with a quintessentially German cold platter of ham and cheese.