Riesling Is Germany’s All-Rounder

The history of German white wine

Looking back over hundreds of years of winegrowing in Germany, you encounter many white grape varieties. Whether currently fashionable varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio (Grauburgunder), or more traditional representatives such as Müller Thurgau, Muskateller and Traminer, it makes no difference—in the world of white wines, there is no getting around Riesling in our country. This vine has been mentioned in the wine world for 600 years. It is said to have developed from wild vines in the alluvial forests of the Palatinate, and the plant is a cross between the ancient varieties Heunisch, Vitis sylvestris and Traminer. The Romans probably brought Traminer to the Rhine. The original vine contributes above all frost hardiness and small berries. This vine was probably already cultivated by the Germanic peoples and, given Riesling’s close relationship to wild vines, may have been selected from them. Others say the grape variety descends from Gouais Blanc, which would make it French in origin. Varieties such as Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Muscadelle are also said to descend from it. So who is right?

To be precise, one of the earliest mentions was in Rüsselsheim in 1435 (Rießlingen), followed in subsequent decades by Diebach, the Mosel and Worms, after which Riesling’s triumphant advance could no longer be stopped. 

This is where Riesling comes from

The plant’s characteristics

Making dry white wines in such a way that they mature into outstanding wines is an art. Riesling takes this a step further, because the grape variety ripens relatively late. The orientation of the slopes in terms of sun exposure, soil warmth and soil aeration must therefore be in perfect balance, ideally on light to medium-heavy soils. In terms of yield, this wine sits only in the middle range, producing around 60–110 hectolitres per hectare under cultivation.

The shoot tip of Riesling is yellowish-green, and this remains the dominant colour combination. Both the leaves and, later, the berries shimmer in the sunlight. The berries also develop little black dots, rather like a scattering of freckles.

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The many names of Riesling

Since this grape variety also has a history stretching back centuries, countless winegrowers in Germany, Austria, France and around the world have given it their own name. Here is a whole mountain of alternative names for one and the same wine. Have fun learning them by heart.

Belo Vodno, Beregi Riesling, Beyaz Riesling, Bialo Vodno, Biela Disuca Grasiva, Biela Grasevina, Biela Grasevina Bey Pecke, Bukettriesling, Dinca Grasiva Biela, Edelriesling, Edle Gewuerztraube, Feher Rajnai, Feher Rajnai Rizling, Gelber Riesling, Gentil Aromatique, Gentile Aromatique, Gentile Aromatique Petracine, German Riesling, Gewuerzriesling, Gewuerztraube, Graefenberger, Graschevina, Graschewina, Grasevina, Grasevina Rajnska, Grauer Riesling, Grobriesling, Grosser Riesling, Hochheimer, Johanisberger, Johannisberg, Johannisberg Riesling, Johannisberger, Johannisberger Gontil Aromatique, Johannisberger Weisser, Johannisberger White, Jonanisberger Riesling, Karbacher, Karbacher Riesling, Kastellberger, Kis Rizling, Kleigelberger, Kleiner Riesling, Kleinriesler, Kleinriesling, Klingelberger, Klingenberger, Klingerberger, Krauses, Krausses Roessling, Lipka, Moselriesling,

Nieberlander, Niederlaender, Oberkircher, Oberlaender, Petit Rhin, Petit Riesling, Petracine, Pfaelzer, Pfefferl, Pfoelzer, Piros Rajnai Rizling, Plinia Rhenana, Plinia Submoschata, Pussilla, Raisin Du Rhin, Rajinski Rizling, Rajnai Rizlin, Rajnai Rizling, Rajnai Rizling Gm 239-20, Rajnski Rizling, Rajnski Ruzling, Rano, Rauschling Blanc, Reichsriesling, Reissler, Remo, Rendu, Reno, Renski Rizling, Reuschling, Rey Rislinqi, Reyn Rislinqi, Reyn's Risling, Reynai, Rezlik, Rezlin, Rezling, Rezlink, Rhein Riesling, Rheingauer, Rheinriesling, Rhine Riesling, Riesler, Riesling, Riesling Bianco, Riesling Blanc, Riesling Blanc Sans Pepins, Riesling de Rhin, Riesling Echter Weisser, Riesling Edler, Riesling Giallo, Riesling Grau, Riesling Grosso, Riesling Gruener Mosel, Riesling im Elsass, Riesling Mosel, Riesling Reinskii, Riesling Renano, Riesling Renano Bianco, Riesling Rhenan, Riesling Rhine, Riesling Rothstieliger, Riesling Weisser, Riesling White, Rieslinger, Rieslingtraube, Rislinenok, Risling, Risling Reinskii, Risling Rejnski, Risling Renano, Rislinock, Rislinok, Rislinq, Rizling Linner, Rizling Rajinski, Rizling Rajnai, Rizling Rajnski, Rizling Rajnski Bijeli, Rizling Rejnskij, Rizling Rynsky, Roesling, Roessling, Roesslinger, Rohac, Rossling, Rosslinger, Ruessel, Ruessling, Russel, Ryn-Riesling, Rynse Druie, Rynsky Ryzlink, Ryzlink Rynsky, Schloss Johannisberg, Starosvetske, Starovetski, Szuerke Rizling, Uva Pussila, Vitis Rhenensis, Weiser Riesler, Weisser Kleiner Riesling, Weisser Riesling, White Riesling

The white wine star as a parent

It was not only in German winegrowing regions that winemakers and growers wanted to find vines capable of producing suitable white wines. No, the whole world is after these freckled berries, and so Riesling has passed on its outstanding genes as a father, mother and crossing partner.

Riesling served as the mother variety in the crosses that produced Alb de Yaloven, Arnsburger, Augustriesling, Beutelriesling, Bouquetriesling, Dalkauer, Donauriesling, Edelmuskat, Ehrenfelser, Feinriesling, Floricica, Frühriesling, Johanniter, Kocsis Zsuzsa, Manzoni Bianco, Marienriesling, Müller-Thurgau, Multaner, Muscat de la Republique, Oraniensteiner, Osiris, Osteiner, Quanyu B, Rabaner, Rieslaner, Rieslina, Riesling Magaracha, Romeo.

Riesling served as the father variety in the crosses that produced Aris, Arnsburger, Aurelius, Dona Emilia, Dr. Deckerrebe, Elbriesling, Kamchia, Kerner, Lafayette, Misket Varnenski, Negritienok, President Carnot, Rabaner, Rieslaner, Riesling Bulgarski, Ruling, Scheurebe, Thurling, Witberger.

In more complex breeding programmes, it served as a crossing partner for Albalonga, Bacchus, Breidecker, Goldriesling, Grando, Königsast, Merzling, Perlriesling, Primera, Quanyu B, Rotberger, Ruling.

The taste in the glass

This wine dons every evening gown that makes the ball more beautiful. Sometimes it is racy and lively, fresh and elegant; at other times, metallically pure and tingling with minerality. It is just as assured in dry and off-dry styles as it is as one of those unforgettable sweet white wines. Its most characteristic hallmark, sometimes strongly to the fore but in many cases merely hinted at, is its distinctive zesty, fruity acidity. Depending on where you drink it, the first sip can produce an extra-powerful tingle on the tongue, or simply convey the fruity freshness of stone fruit, apple and lemon. It brings the colour of its berries into the glass in just a few shades. From pale yellow to a rich, sunny hue, the glass glows on the table. Straight after the harvest, the grape invites the winemaker to linger a little longer in the cellar, because skin contact and fining can smooth out a great many rough edges in the aromas of berry skin, flesh and peel. What the cellar master can bring into proper balance down at the stainless-steel tanks begins with the winegrower planting the vine.

It is almost like blotting paper, you might think. The plant transfers the soil’s composition, its mineral content, water and warmth directly into the berry. And so you can very often taste exactly where this Riesling must have come from. A softer style with the substantial, soft soil layers of the Palatinate, or the slate-rich soils of the Palatinate, whose minerality is unsurpassed. This benefits anyone buying this exemplary grape variety, because they can explore it and will probably never get bored. Although white wines are not normally excellent candidates for cellaring and do not really become more valuable, a good bottle in this category can certainly improve. With either crisp acidity or as a lusciously sweet white wine, it has the capacity to age for a good ten years or more. And there is one more thing about Riesling wines, as Americans like to say, before pronouncing it “Reisling”.

In good years, when the weather cooperates, the vine is attacked by Boytritis cinerea, or noble rot, which comes from grey mould rot. If the berries are still too small and too young, this spells the death of the vintage. But if the mould only breaks out shortly before harvest, acidity is reduced, the skins split open and the sugar concentration rises. Once again, this wine appears in a guise that is particularly popular with occasional wine drinkers. The possibility of making an off-dry or medium-sweet vintage suddenly becomes a sweet batch. A process similar to Boytritis can, of course, also take place when harvesting ice wine. Here, too, water is removed from the berry in the form of ice, and the remainder goes into the bottle as a lusciously sweet wine.